Wild garlic

Ail des ours

What it is

“Bear’s garlic” in half of Europe’s languages: legend says bears eat it first thing after hibernation to wake their blood. For a few weeks each spring, whole forests smell of garlic, and foragers fill baskets with the leaves — the kitchen’s brief, green thunderclap.

In the kitchen

Beware its deadly lookalike, lily of the valley: crush a leaf — no garlic smell, no picking. Blitzed with pine nuts and parmesan it makes spring’s definitive pesto.

Goes with

Potato Butter Egg Pine nut Parmesan Salmon

Same species

Arleux smoked garlic Banana shallot Black garlic Calçot Cévennes sweet onion Chives

In season alongside

Garlic scape Hairy bittercress Ramps Spring onion Watercress Borage

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