Bog myrtle ✦

Piment royal

What it is

Before hops took over, northern European ale was bittered with gruit, and bog myrtle was one of its principal herbs — a shrub of acid bogs where almost nothing edible grows. Nordic kitchens brought it back for fish and game, where it works like a bay leaf with eucalyptus behind it.

In the kitchen

Use whole leaves, one or two, and lift them out before serving — the resin is strong and the bitterness keeps building through a long braise. Bruise a leaf in the pan for oily fish; the catkins are stronger still, so halve the quantity.

Goes with

Juniper berry Venison Salmon Bay leaf Butter Beer vinegar Wild boar

In season alongside

Alexanders Bagnoli truffle Balsam poplar buds Calendula Crowberry Chestnut honey

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