Chervil

Cerfeuil

What it is

The most fragile of the fines herbes — the classic French quartet with parsley, chives and tarragon — whispering anise where the others speak. Old Europe ate it at Easter as a herb of renewal; today it is the connoisseur’s test of a kitchen’s finesse, since heat erases it entirely.

In the kitchen

Never chop it hard, never cook it: pluck the lacy leaves whole over eggs, carrots or a cream soup at the moment of serving.

Goes with

Egg Carrot Asparagus Cream Tarragon Chives Parsley

Also used with

Amethyst deceiver Prussian asparagus Buckler-leaf sorrel Grayling Hop shoots Veal tongue

In season alongside

Sweetfish (ayu) Borage Cucumber Dill Green almond Lettuce

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