Copius
Rowan berry, drawn for Copius

Rowan berry ✦

Sorbe

Latin nameSorbus aucuparia
FamilyFruits
OriginUplands of northern Europe
Season (France)September – October
FlavourBitter · Sour · Fruity
Typical price (France)10–25 €/kg

What it is

Sorbic acid takes its name from this tree: A. W. von Hofmann distilled rowanberry oil in 1859, obtained parasorbic acid and hydrolysed it into the compound now used worldwide as a preservative. That same parasorbic acid is what makes the raw berry harsh, and cooking or a spell in the freezer converts it — which is why Nordic kitchens have always frozen rowans before touching them.

In the kitchen

Freeze the berries at least two nights before cooking, or blanch them twice in fresh water; untreated they are harsh enough to be inedible. For a jelly to serve with game, count one part rowan to two parts tart apple, which brings the pectin and the body.

Goes with

Venison Apple Juniper berry Goose Thyme Red wine vinegar Blackcurrant White sugar

In season alongside

Lingonberry Cranberry Damson Omija (schisandra berry) Sloe Blackberry

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