Winter chanterelle

Chanterelle en tube

What it is

It runs months after the girolle has finished, on into the frosts, and grows so thick in the moss that a good patch is picked by the kilo rather than the handful. Hollow-stemmed and papery, it dries better than any other chanterelle and comes back in five minutes, which is how most of the Nordic crop is sold.

In the kitchen

There is nothing in it to sear: it collapses in seconds, so it goes in at the very end, onto a finished cream or a hot omelette. Dried and ground it works better as a seasoning than as a mushroom — a spoonful into a sauce carries the pepper note.

Goes with

Cream Butter Egg Thyme Shallot Chicken Walnut Juniper berry

Same species

Black trumpet

In season alongside

Chanterelle Snail eggs Summer cep

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