Hedgehog mushroom

Pied-de-mouton

What it is

Underneath it has spines rather than gills — tiny soft teeth that shed spores, which is why French calls it a sheep's foot and English a hedgehog. It has no dangerous lookalike at all, which makes it the beginner's mushroom.

In the kitchen

Scrape the spines off if it is a large one — they turn bitter with age. Young specimens need nothing.

Goes with

Butter Parsley Garlic Cream Shallot Thyme Egg Chicken

In season alongside

Cauliflower Arbutus berry Bintje potato Borlotti bean Brussels sprout Butternut squash

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