Spider crab

Araignée de mer

What it is

Brittany considers it finer than the brown crab and it costs less, which is one of the last genuine bargains at a French fish counter. It migrates in vast columns along the seabed in spring, walking single file.

In the kitchen

There is far less meat than the size suggests and picking it is slow. Do it once, in company, with a glass of something cold.

Goes with

Lemon Chives Olive oil Shallot White wine vinegar Tomato Parsley Black pepper

In season alongside

Surf clam Soft-shell clam Stone crab claw Wedge clam Brill Arctic char

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