Snow crab

Crabe des neiges

What it is

The Bering Sea fishery shut for the first time in its history in 2022, after surveys found the population had fallen by more than ninety per cent; NOAA later put the die-off down to starvation during a marine heatwave that raised the crabs’ metabolism faster than the food supply could follow. Most of what now reaches Europe comes from the Gulf of St Lawrence spring season instead.

In the kitchen

It is sold cooked and frozen: thaw the clusters overnight in the fridge, never in water, which leaches the meat pale and flat. Then steam four minutes, only to bring them to temperature, and open each leg by running scissors along the flat edge underneath.

Goes with

Butter Lemon Dijon mustard Chives Tarragon Celery Fleur de sel de Guérande Avocado

In season alongside

Hake John Dory Plaice Trout Weever Acacia honey

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