Hake

Merlu

What it is

Spain eats more of it than anyone and treats the throat — the kokotxa — as the finest part, a gelatinous morsel Basque cooks turn into pil-pil sauce by nothing more than swirling it in warm oil until it emulsifies.

In the kitchen

Its flesh is fragile and falls apart if turned twice. Cook it on one side only and finish it under the grill.

Goes with

Garlic Olive oil Parsley Clam Chili pepper Potato Lemon White wine vinegar

Same species

Kokotxas (hake throat)

In season alongside

Haddock John Dory Plaice Pollock Snow crab Trout

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