Halfbeak (sayori) ✦

Demi-bec du Japon (sayori)

What it is

Slit the belly and the cavity is lined with a black membrane, sometimes given as the source of haraguro — Japanese for a scheming person, literally black-bellied. The etymology is argued over, but the fish really is two-faced: glass and silver outside, soot within.

In the kitchen

Scrape the black lining out with the back of a knife under running water until the cavity is white, or the whole fish tastes bitter. The fillet is too thin to slice across — cut it into long ribbons and tie each one in a loose knot.

Goes with

Wasabi Shiso Ponzu Sudachi Myoga Negi Koikuchi shoyu Gari (pickled ginger)

In season alongside

Northern sweet shrimp Baek-kimchi Nantucket bay scallop Borage Brill Clam

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