Lobster ◆

Homard

What it is

Colonial New England fed lobster to prisoners and servants — the story goes that some contracts capped it at three meals a week. The rails and the rich reversed its fortune entirely; Brittany’s cobalt-shelled homard bleu now outranks nearly everything else in the tank.

In the kitchen

Undercook rather than over — the flesh turns to eraser past its point. Roast the shells for bisque, and dare the old Senderens pairing: a whisper of vanilla in the butter.

Goes with

Butter Vanilla Tarragon Lemon Corn

Same species

American lobster Lobster coral

Also used with

Absinthe Lobster mushroom Cognac

In season alongside

Brill Arctic char Crayfish Dentex Greater amberjack (kanpachi) Spiny lobster

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