Copius
Pike, drawn for Copius

Pike

Brochet

Latin nameEsox lucius
FamilyFish & seafood
OriginNorthern hemisphere fresh water
Season (France)October – March
FlavourDelicate · Mild · Sweet · Earthy
Typical price (France)15–25 €/kg

What it is

Lyon built a dish around its worst feature: pike is riddled with fine forked bones, so cooks pounded the flesh, sieved it and bound it into quenelles. The bones are the reason the technique exists.

In the kitchen

Do not attempt a plain fillet unless someone very skilled has boned it. Quenelles or a terrine are the safe routes.

Goes with

Cream Butter Shallot Nutmeg Egg Crayfish White wine vinegar Chives

In season alongside

Savoy cabbage Pauillac lamb Japanese tilefish (amadai) Amethyst deceiver Arbutus berry Hind

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