Pollack

Lieu jaune

What it is

Lieu jaune and lieu noir are two different fish and the price gap runs to about fivefold: the yellow one is line-caught from small boats off the Pointe de Bretagne and lands with its flanks unbruised. The curved lateral line and the jutting lower jaw are how you tell it at the stall.

In the kitchen

The flakes are large and let go all at once, so cook thick portions and stop early: 50 °C at the centre, then two minutes off the heat. Skin-on searing works here where it fails on cod.

Goes with

Butter Leek Cider vinegar Potato Parsley Samphire Lemon White wine vinegar

Same species

Pollock

In season alongside

Gurnard Haddock Hake John Dory Warty venus clam Red porgy

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