Skate wing

Aile de raie

What it is

It has cartilage rather than bone, so the flesh comes away in ribbed strands rather than flakes. It also smells faintly of ammonia if it is even slightly old — one of the few fish where the nose gives an unambiguous verdict.

In the kitchen

Raie au beurre noisette is the dish: browned butter, capers, a splash of vinegar. It has been the standard for two centuries because nothing beats it.

Goes with

Capers Butter White wine vinegar Parsley Potato Lemon Black pepper Shallot

Same species

Skate liver

Also used with

Salt-packed capers

In season alongside

Arctic char Crayfish Splendid alfonsino (kinmedai) Albacore Northern sweet shrimp American lobster

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