Perch

Perche

What it is

Around Lake Geneva roughly nine perch fillets in ten served in restaurants arrive from Estonia, Poland or Russia; the lakes themselves supply a small fraction of what is eaten. Swiss consumer associations have tested the menus more than once and found the labels optimistic.

In the kitchen

A perch fillet is 8 mm thick and cooks in ninety seconds. Flour it dry, use clarified butter hot enough to sing, and salt only once it leaves the pan — salted early the fillets weep and stew.

Goes with

Butter Clarified butter Lemon Parsley Chives Almond Capers

In season alongside

Acacia honey Japanese tilefish (amadai) Lily bulb Haddock Hake Halibut

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