Wild bilberry

Myrtille sauvage

What it is

Wartime Britain put about the story that RAF night-fighter crews ate bilberry jam to sharpen their night vision; it was cover for radar, and the claim has never held up in trials since. What is true is the colour: unlike the cultivated blueberry, the bilberry is purple all the way through, and one handful will stain a whole litre of cream.

In the kitchen

They hold almost no pectin, so a jam needs apple, redcurrant or added pectin or it stays a syrup. Fold them into a batter straight from the freezer — thawed, they burst and bleed grey streaks through the crumb.

Goes with

Cream Lemon Venison Butter Honey Vanilla Kirsch White sugar

Same species

Lingonberry Blueberry Cranberry Dried cranberry

In season alongside

Gooseberry Redcurrant White currant Bergeron apricot Apricot Begonia petals

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