Malmsey Madeira

Madère Malvoisie

What it is

Malmsey is an English mangling of Monemvasia, the Peloponnesian port that shipped Malvasia wine across medieval Europe long before the vine reached Madeira. Chroniclers record that the Duke of Clarence, condemned in 1478, was allowed to choose his death and asked to be drowned in a butt of it — a story repeated for five centuries with no way left to check it.

In the kitchen

Its acidity is what keeps the sugar from cloying, so reduce it gently: a hard boil drives off the volatile acidity and leaves syrup. A spoonful stirred into melted dark chocolate off the heat loosens a ganache without adding water.

Goes with

Dark chocolate Dried fig Walnut Medjool date Orange Cream

Same species

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP Amontillado Armagnac Banyuls Brandy de Jerez Champagne vinegar

Also used with

Cockscomb Cockerel testicles Truffle juice

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