Mackerel

Maquereau

What it is

It has no swim bladder and must keep swimming to stay off the bottom, which is why the flesh is so dark and oily — it is pure endurance muscle. That same oil means it spoils faster than almost any other fish.

In the kitchen

Buy it the day it was landed or not at all. Its acidity partners — gooseberry, rhubarb, mustard — are not decoration but necessity.

Goes with

Gooseberry Mustard Rhubarb Lemon Horseradish Cider vinegar Black pepper Beetroot

Same species

Saba-bushi

Also used with

Buck’s-horn plantain Garlic mustard Kanzuri Rock samphire Roscoff pink onion Sea rocket

In season alongside

Bonito (katsuo) Tuna Allis shad Lamb neck European conger Lobster coral

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