Lamb shoulder

Épaule d’agneau

What it is

Fattier and far more forgiving than the leg, and the cut that made seven-hour lamb possible — cooked until a spoon goes through it. Butchers sell it cheaper than gigot for reasons of appearance rather than eating quality.

In the kitchen

Cook it longer than you think. There is no medium here — it is either pink and chewy or falling apart, and the second is the point.

Goes with

Garlic Rosemary Thyme Anchovy White beans Lemon Onion Olive oil

In season alongside

Lamb neck Bonito (katsuo) Figatellu Lamprey Mackerel Shad roe

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