Leg of lamb

Gigot d’agneau

What it is

France’s Easter centrepiece, studded with garlic slivers and carved at the table by whoever holds rank. The seven-hour version — gigot de sept heures — cooks until it is served with a spoon, a dish old cookbooks sealed shut with a flour-and-water lute so no perfume could escape.

In the kitchen

Two schools, both right: hot and pink with the bone in, rested under foil — or seven hours at a whisper with garlic and white beans until the knife is unemployed.

Goes with

Garlic Rosemary White beans Thyme Mint

Same species

Pauillac lamb Salt marsh lamb Sisteron lamb Lamb fries Lamb brain Lamb

In season alongside

Allis shad Bonito (katsuo) Lamb neck Lamb shoulder Figatellu Lamprey

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