Meagre

Maigre (ombrine)

What it is

Sciaenids drum: the males vibrate muscles against the swim bladder, and spawning meagre in the Gironde can be heard from a boat thirty metres off. Fishermen used to locate the shoals by ear, leaning over the side.

In the kitchen

Low fat means it dries fast. Cut 3 cm steaks on the bone, salt them an hour ahead and roast at 140 °C until a skewer meets no resistance — treat it like veal, not like bass.

Goes with

Olive oil Lemon Wild fennel fronds Samphire Shallot White wine vinegar Butter Thyme

In season alongside

Allis shad Swordfish Salt marsh lamb Albacore Japanese abalone Bonito (katsuo)

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