Yakiago ✦

Yakiago (poisson volant grillé séché)

What it is

The flying fish are caught, split, grilled over charcoal and dried through the autumn on the Goto Islands, ready for the new year. Because the fish carries almost no fat — it spends its life gliding — the stock comes out clear and faintly sweet where an oily fish would leave it cloudy.

In the kitchen

Steep about 20 g to the litre in cold water overnight rather than boiling: above a bare simmer the head and bones give up a bitterness. Snap the fish in half first so the water reaches the spine.

Goes with

Kombu Mochi (kirimochi) Mitsuba Daikon Usukuchi shoyu Negi

In season alongside

Tiger pufferfish (torafugu) Oyster Oyster mushroom Squid Albacore Japanese tilefish (amadai)

Something wrong here, or missing? Tell us