Largehead hairtail (tachiuo) ✦

Poisson-sabre (tachiuo)

What it is

It has no scales at all: the silver on its skin is a layer of guanine crystals, the same material the fishing trade once scraped off and sold to cosmetics makers as pearl essence. That silver is edible and stays on the fish, which takes its name from it — tachi, the sword.

In the kitchen

Score the skin in a diamond, salt it 30 minutes, blot it dry and sear skin-side down without moving it — the silver blisters and crisps. Lift it with a slice from underneath, never with tongs: the flesh comes apart on its own.

Goes with

Salt Lemon Negi Ginger Soy sauce Hon-mirin Black pepper Garlic

In season alongside

Albacore Boudin blanc Goose foie gras Matjes herring Poularde Ajvar

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