Weever

Vive

What it is

It lies buried in sand with only its eyes and its black first dorsal showing, and the venom in those spines stays active for hours in a fish that is already dead — which is why the spines come off at the quay rather than in the kitchen. The venom is a protein and heat unfolds it: a stung foot goes into water as hot as the bather can bear, and stays there.

In the kitchen

Run a fingertip along the back before you take hold of the fish, and cut the whole first dorsal away with scissors. Firm and sweet, it deserves better than the soup it usually dissolves into: fillet it and grill it.

Goes with

Saffron Fennel Olive oil Tomato Garlic Orange Potato

In season alongside

Hake Plaice Sea bass Snow crab Trout Zander

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