Grey mullet
Mulet
| Latin name | Mugil cephalus |
|---|---|
| Family | Fish & seafood |
| Origin | Estuaries and coastal lagoons |
| Season (France) | September – December |
| Flavour | Rich · Earthy · Marine · Mild |
| Typical price (France) | 6–12 €/kg |
What it is
The word poutargue travels back through Arabic butarkha to a Greek compound meaning salted fish eggs, and the roe it names is this fish's — Martigues has pressed and waxed grey mullet roe since at least the Middle Ages. The animal that carries it sells for a fraction of the price of what it is transporting.
In the kitchen
Skin it and leave the fillets uncovered on ice overnight — the muddy note lives in the skin and the fat directly beneath it, and a night of air changes the fish completely. Failing that, salt the flesh for 20 minutes and rinse.
Goes with
Lemon Fennel Olive oil Garlic Tomato Thyme White wine vinegar Bay leaf
Same species
In season alongside
Albacore Charolais European conger Eggplant Red mullet Swordfish
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