Pacific saury (sanma)

Balaou du Japon (sanma)

What it is

Its kanji spells autumn-sword-fish, and a September sanma can carry many times the fat of the same fish in spring. The guts are eaten on purpose: sanma has no stomach at all, so food passes through in about half an hour and the innards stay clean and bitter rather than foul.

In the kitchen

Salt it 20 minutes ahead, wipe the brine off and grill over a high fire, turning once at most — the skin should split. Squeeze sudachi over it and eat the dark part with grated daikon; skip that and you have missed the fish.

Goes with

Sudachi Daikon Salt Koikuchi shoyu Ginger Negi Rice Kabosu

In season alongside

Bonito (katsuo) Japanese amberjack (buri) Cavolo nero Lobster coral Scallop coral Brown crab

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