Copius
Sugukizuke, drawn for Copius

Sugukizuke ✦

Sugukizuke

Latin nameBrassica rapa var. neosuguki
FamilyCondiments & ferments
OriginKamigamo, Kyoto
Season (France)November – February
FlavourSour · Umami · Salty
Typical price (France)25–45 €/kg

What it is

Until the end of the Edo period only the priestly families of Kamigamo shrine were permitted to grow suguki, and the turnips left the precinct as gifts rather than goods. There is no vinegar in it at all: the sourness is lactic, produced by bacteria that were first isolated from these barrels and named after the pickle.

In the kitchen

Slice it whole, leaves included, and serve it cold with rice — the leaf is where the sharpest sourness sits. Never rinse it: the water takes the surface lactic bacteria and the flavour with them.

Goes with

Rice Sencha Toasted sesame oil Salt Katsuobushi (dried bonito) Koikuchi shoyu

Same species

Baek-kimchi Broccoli Brussels sprout Cabbage Cauliflower Cavolo nero

In season alongside

Konowata Formaggio di Fossa Sujiko

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