Nozawana-zuke ✦

Nozawana-zuke

What it is

Temple legend at Kenmei-ji has its eighth abbot carrying Tennōji turnip seed home from Kyoto in 1756; planted in the cold at Nozawa Onsen the root stayed small and the leaves ran to nearly a metre, so the village kept the leaf and forgot the root. It is salted whole, stalk and all, and ferments in barrels through the snow.

In the kitchen

Squeeze the brine out and cut across the stalk, never along it, or the fibres stay stringy. Older, sourer barrels are better cooked: fry them in sesame oil with chilli until the water has gone and they turn into a topping rather than a salad.

Goes with

Rice Sesame Koikuchi shoyu Katsuobushi (dried bonito) Toasted sesame oil Pork

Same species

Baek-kimchi Broccoli Brussels sprout Cabbage Cauliflower Cavolo nero

In season alongside

Agretti Celery Chickweed Frisée Kale Komatsuna

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