Lamb kidney

Rognon d'agneau

What it is

The two kidneys sit under the saddle wrapped in their own suet, and a butcher selling the saddle whole leaves them there. Sold separately they are counted by the piece and split along the seam rather than carved, which is why they are priced by the unit and not by weight.

In the kitchen

Snip the white core out with scissors before it reaches the pan; leave it and the kidney weeps and turns bitter. Ninety seconds a side over fierce heat, then rest — past pink it goes granular and no sauce brings it back.

Goes with

Dijon mustard Shallot Butter Parsley Cognac Thyme Black pepper

Same species

Pauillac lamb Salt marsh lamb Sisteron lamb Lamb fries Lamb brain Leg of lamb

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