Cockerel testicles ✦

Rognons de coq

What it is

They are not kidneys: the name survives from an old butchery misnaming, and what is sold are the cockerel's paired glands, pale and firm as set custard. With cockscombs they make the two halves of the garniture financière, the vol-au-vent filling that outlived the dish it was invented for.

In the kitchen

Poach them whole in a light stock, barely trembling, eight to ten minutes — a boil bursts them. They take colour badly and season blandly, so finish them in the sauce rather than in the pan.

Goes with

Chicken Butter Malmsey Madeira Cream Black truffle Morel Cockscomb

Same species

Egg white powder (albumin) Chicken tail (bonjiri) Bresse chicken Capon Chicken Rooster

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