Pike conger (hamo) ✦

Congre-brochet (hamo)

What it is

Hamo is the fish of the Gion Matsuri in July, originally because it was the one that survived the journey inland to Kyoto alive. A cook is judged on honekiri: twenty-six cuts to each sun, about 3 cm, through the intramuscular bones and stopping dead at the skin.

In the kitchen

After scoring, dip the pieces into water at 80 °C for a few seconds and they bloom open like a white flower — then straight into iced water. Serve with umeboshi paste: the acid is doing structural work on the fat, not decoration.

Goes with

Umeboshi Junmai sake Sudachi Kombu Matsutake Negi Salt Ponzu

Also used with

Ma-kombu Shiro shoyu

In season alongside

Acacia honey Hake Halibut Lemon sole Lotus seed Pattypan squash

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