Grayling ✦

Ombre commun

What it is

The Latin name records a smell: Thymallus, for thyme, which is what a grayling straight out of a cold river gives off. The scent goes within an hour or two of death, so almost nobody who buys their fish has ever met it.

In the kitchen

Cook it on the bank or not at all - hours matter here, not days. Butter and nothing acid: a squeeze of lemon flattens the thyme note that is the only reason to prefer it to a trout.

Goes with

Butter Thyme Parsley Almond Potato Chervil Watercress Cream

In season alongside

Brousse du Rove Chayote Cucumber Fresh walnut Junsai Lettuce

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