Signature dish · 1995
Smoked eel, foie gras, spring onion and green apple
Martín Berasategui · 1960 · Lasarte-Oria, Basque Country
Four layers, no sauce, eaten in one. It has stayed on the menu unchanged for thirty years, which is its own kind of argument.
Why it works
Two fat, smoky layers against two that are sharp and watery: the apple and the onion are the acid and the crunch that a sauce would otherwise have to supply.