Tome des Bauges

Tome des Bauges

What it is

It is spelled tome, with one m: the Bauges kept the older local spelling when the appellation was drawn up in 2002, and that single letter is the quickest way to tell it from Tomme de Savoie on a label. The grey felt on the rind is grown on purpose — the wheels are turned and brushed in the cellar for months, but they are never scrubbed clean.

In the kitchen

The rind is edible but tastes of the cellar; on an old wheel pare a millimetre off. It is a melting cheese as much as a table one — cubed into a pan of hot potato and onion it goes to cream, where Beaufort would string.

Goes with

Potato Onion Walnut Rye berries Apple Cornichon Bayonne ham

Same species

Abura-kasu Amourettes (spinal marrow) Spider steak Bastourma Flank steak Beef

In season alongside

Bronze bolete Burdock root Burgundy truffle Chevrotin Pine bolete Summer cep

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