Pioppino

Pholiote du peuplier

What it is

Pliny the Elder describes it grown on poplar stumps, which makes it one of the first mushrooms anyone farmed on purpose. Two thousand years on the method has barely moved: a cut poplar log, spawn in the wound, and a tuft that returns to the same stump for years.

In the kitchen

The stem is the good part here, firm and frankly hazelnut, so do not trim it back — only the woody last centimetre goes. It gives up very little water and browns in three minutes rather than eight.

Goes with

Garlic Parsley Olive oil Stone-ground polenta Pancetta Thyme Parmesan Egg

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