Red-legged partridge ◆

Perdrix rouge

What it is

The hen often lays two clutches and leaves one to the cock to sit on, a division of labour almost unknown among European game birds. She is a bigger, darker and firmer bird than the grey partridge, and wants a different treatment entirely from the one most recipes mean by partridge.

In the kitchen

A young bird — pointed outer primary, pale legs — roasts in eighteen minutes at 200 °C; anything older wants two hours in a casserole with cabbage, or goes into a terrine. Getting that judgment wrong is the whole of the partridge's reputation for dryness.

Goes with

Cabbage Juniper berry Lard Thyme Garlic Chestnut Red wine vinegar Onion

In season alongside

Bronze bolete Maitake Orange oak bolete Wood pigeon Bay bolete Woodcock

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