Wood pigeon ◆

Palombe

What it is

Every October the flocks funnel through the passes of the Basque country and the Landes, where hunters wait in palombières — huts built up in the oaks and joined by walkways through the canopy. The birds arrive muscled from the crossing, which is why the breast is firmer and far darker than any farmed squab.

In the kitchen

Breast only, four minutes a side in foaming butter, then rest it as long again — pink and no further, or the iron note turns to liver. Keep the carcasses for stock; the legs are too sinewy to roast.

Goes with

Porcini Armagnac Juniper berry Chestnut Butter Cabbage

Same species

Pigeon

In season alongside

Woodcock Figatellu Goose Hare Maitake Orange oak bolete

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