Leaf lard

Panne de porc

What it is

Panne is the sheet of fat hanging around the kidneys, and it is not interchangeable with back fat: it renders whiter, firmer and almost without pork flavour, which is why pastry cooks order it by name. Rendered slowly it gives the saindoux that made pie crusts flake long before anyone bought shortening in a tin.

In the kitchen

Render it low: dice it cold, add a splash of water to the pan and hold it under 110 °C until the water has gone and the pieces float pale gold. Push the heat and it browns — and browned lard tastes of pork forever after, which ruins it for pastry.

Goes with

T55 flour Salt Apple White sugar Potato Onion Sage Rye flour

Same species

Andouillette Boudin blanc Natural casings Caul fat Chorizo Ciauscolo

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