St George’s mushroom

Mousseron

What it is

It appears around Saint George's day in late April, which is where the English name comes from, and it grows in rings on old pasture. It smells strongly of fresh flour — a diagnostic so reliable that foragers identify it by nose.

In the kitchen

One of the very few good spring mushrooms, which is most of its value. Pair it with the other things in season — asparagus, peas.

Goes with

Asparagus Butter Cream Pea Chervil Shallot Egg Chicken

In season alongside

Bamboo shoot Cauliflower Charcoal burner Charolais Desert truffle Ribwort plantain

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