Fairy ring mushroom

Faux mousseron

What it is

Fries put it in Marasmius, from the Greek for drying out, because of what it does in a drought: the cap shrivels away, then rehydrates with the next rain and resumes releasing spores, protected by the trehalose in its walls. That is also why it dries so well in a kitchen — it was built for it.

In the kitchen

Dried, it is a seasoning and not a vegetable: a small handful ground to powder carries a whole blanquette or cream sauce with an almond-and-hay note the fresh caps do not have. Use the caps only — the stems stay as tough as wire — and never gather from a lawn, where the ring hides poisonous lookalikes.

Goes with

Cream Butter Chicken Parsley Shallot Tarragon

In season alongside

Blue corn Romanesco Bladder campion Asparagus Bell pepper Borlotti bean

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