Masago

Masago (œufs de capelan)

What it is

Masago is capelin roe, from a small Arctic forage fish netted by the million off Iceland and Newfoundland — the same fish that feeds the cod swimming above it. It is routinely coloured and sold as tobiko, though the eggs are smaller, softer and faintly bitter, and they behave differently the moment they meet a sauce.

In the kitchen

Because the grains break, use it stirred into mayonnaise or a spicy dressing where tobiko would be wasted. Keep tobiko for the top of the roll and masago for the inside.

Goes with

Rice Nori Cucumber Avocado Sesame Soy sauce Spring onion

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