March hygrophorus ✦

Hygrophore de mars

What it is

Marzuolus is simply of March: it fruits under melting snow in mountain fir and beech, when nothing else edible is up. Grey on grey litter and usually half-buried, it is hunted by feeling for domes underfoot rather than by eye.

In the kitchen

The flesh is thick and holds almost no water, so it takes a real sear and barely shrinks: three minutes a side in foaming butter, like a scallop. Brush the base hard — it comes up full of soil.

Goes with

Butter Garlic Parsley Thyme Cream Hazelnut Potato

In season alongside

Black locust flower Acacia honey Beetroot Blood orange Brussels sprout Cabbage

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