Charcoal burner
Russule charbonnière
| Latin name | Russula cyanoxantha |
|---|---|
| Family | Mushrooms |
| Origin | European broadleaf forest |
| Season (France) | June – October |
| Flavour | Mild · Nutty · Earthy |
| Typical price (France) | 12–25 €/kg |
What it is
Every other russula has brittle gills that shatter under a thumb; cyanoxantha's are flexible and faintly greasy, and drawing a finger across them is the whole identification. Its cap runs from slate to violet to green on one patch of forest floor, which is why the French named it for charcoal instead of for a colour.
In the kitchen
It sheds almost no water, so young caps fry whole in butter and stay intact where other russulas fall apart. Two minutes a side, then salt.
Goes with
Butter Shallot Parsley Cream Egg Thyme
Same species
In season alongside
Bintje potato Cauliflower Celeriac Charolais St George’s mushroom Hedgehog mushroom
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