Copius
Charcoal burner, drawn for Copius

Charcoal burner

Russule charbonnière

Latin nameRussula cyanoxantha
FamilyMushrooms
OriginEuropean broadleaf forest
Season (France)June – October
FlavourMild · Nutty · Earthy
Typical price (France)12–25 €/kg

What it is

Every other russula has brittle gills that shatter under a thumb; cyanoxantha's are flexible and faintly greasy, and drawing a finger across them is the whole identification. Its cap runs from slate to violet to green on one patch of forest floor, which is why the French named it for charcoal instead of for a colour.

In the kitchen

It sheds almost no water, so young caps fry whole in butter and stay intact where other russulas fall apart. Two minutes a side, then salt.

Goes with

Butter Shallot Parsley Cream Egg Thyme

Same species

Green cracking russula

In season alongside

Bintje potato Cauliflower Celeriac Charolais St George’s mushroom Hedgehog mushroom

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