Copius
Andouillette, drawn for Copius

Andouillette

andouillette

Latin nameSus scrofa (chitterlings, cased)
FamilyMeat & poultry
OriginTroyes, Champagne
Season (France)All year
FlavourPungent · Meaty · Salty · Earthy
Typical price (France)14–25 €/kg

What it is

The Association amicale des amateurs d'andouillette authentique — the five A's — was founded by food writers in 1970 and still awards certificates to charcutiers whose sausage holds nothing but lengthwise strips of pork intestine and stomach. Legend has it Troyes fell in 1560 because the soldiers who entered the town stopped to eat andouillettes and were caught at table.

In the kitchen

Score the casing in two or three places before it meets the pan, or it bursts and empties. Twelve to fifteen minutes over medium heat, never high — fat that gets too hot drives the ammoniac note up and out of balance.

Goes with

Dijon mustard Shallot Potato Cider vinegar Onion Parsley

Same species

Boudin blanc Natural casings Caul fat Chorizo Ciauscolo Suckling pig

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