Signature dish
Poularde demi-deuil
Eugénie Brazier, la Mère Brazier · 1895–1977 · Lyon and col de la Luère
Truffle slid in black discs under the skin of a Bresse hen, then poached. The dish is Mère Fillioux's; Brazier trained under her and carried it into two three-star houses of her own.
Why it works
The fat layer under the skin is the carrier: truffle aroma is fat-soluble, and poaching keeps the bird below the temperature that would drive it off.