Tobiko

Tobiko (œufs de poisson volant)

What it is

Flying fish spawn onto anything floating, so the roe is taken from rafts of straw and palm frond set out for them rather than from the fish — the egg mats are lifted off and washed clean. The wasabi, yuzu and squid-ink colours are dyes added afterwards; the roe itself is a dull orange.

In the kitchen

Add it at the very end and off the heat: the shell is what you are buying, and it softens within a minute in anything hot. Folded through cold mayonnaise or crème fraîche it keeps its crunch for hours.

Goes with

Rice Nori Cucumber Avocado Wasabi Sesame Soy sauce

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