Copius
Fugu shirako, drawn for Copius

Fugu shirako ✦ ◆

Laitance de fugu

Latin nameTakifugu rubripes (milt)
FamilyRoe & caviar
OriginShimonoseki, in winter
Season (France)December – February
FlavourCreamy · Rich · Marine · Delicate
Typical price (France)150–400 €/kg

What it is

In a fish whose liver and ovaries can kill, the milt is harmless — it is the one internal organ a licensed fugu cook may serve, and it peaks in the weeks before the winter spawn. It has nothing to do with the cod milt sold under the same word: firmer, sweeter, and priced accordingly.

In the kitchen

Salt it and blister it close to the coals, a minute a side — the skin should mottle while the inside stays liquid. Ponzu and grated daikon; anything creamy is redundant.

Goes with

Ponzu Daikon Negi Salt Junmai sake Yuzu Koikuchi shoyu

Same species

Tiger pufferfish (torafugu)

In season alongside

Herring milt Shirako Northern sweet shrimp Nantucket bay scallop Ankimo Splendid alfonsino (kinmedai)

Something wrong here, or missing? Tell us