Calf's head

Tête de veau

What it is

From the 1690s a London society called the Calves' Head Club met each 30 January, the anniversary of Charles I's execution, and served calves' heads to mock the dead king. The modern butcher spares you the symbolism: the head arrives boned, rolled and tied into a cylinder that puts gelatinous skin, cheek, palate and tongue-root into a single slice.

In the kitchen

Poach it in a blanc — water whisked with flour and lemon juice — or the skin greys and turns bitter; two and a half hours at a bare shiver. Serve it hot, because sauce gribiche over cold tête de veau is a different and much sadder dish.

Goes with

Cornichon Capers Egg Parsley Dijon mustard Shallot Carrot Leek

Same species

Abura-kasu Amourettes (spinal marrow) Spider steak Bastourma Flank steak Beef

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