Termite mushroom (jizong)

Champignon des termitières (jizong)

What it is

Termites farm it: it fruits from the fungus combs a colony builds and tends underground, which is why nobody has managed to grow it on a farm. The story goes that the Ming emperor Tianqi had it carried north from Yunnan by relay horse, packed to arrive before it spoiled.

In the kitchen

Shred it along the grain and confit it slowly in oil rather than searing it in butter - Yunnan keeps it all year as youjizong, fried in rapeseed oil with dried chilli and stored under the fat. Season lightly: a heavy hand with aromatics buries the sweetness you paid for.

Goes with

Chili pepper Jinhua ham Rapeseed oil Garlic Chicken Sichuan pepper Rice Spring onion

In season alongside

Octopus Saltwater conger (anago) Black Krim tomato Bonito (katsuo) Mallard Chicken of the woods

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