Huitlacoche ✦

Huitlacoche

What it is

It is a plant disease: Ustilago maydis infects a living corn plant and swells individual kernels into grey-blue galls — the thing American extension services spent a century trying to eradicate and Mexican farmers were selling at market. The Nahuatl name is older than either position, and Mexican growers now inoculate young cobs on purpose.

In the kitchen

Use it the day it is cut: the galls go from firm to a wet black smear in about two days, and frozen or tinned it has already collapsed. Cook it briefly in fat with onion, garlic and epazote, and add nothing pale — it turns a whole pan of cream inky grey.

Goes with

Corn Epazote Onion Chili pepper Masa harina Garlic

In season alongside

Ajvar Saltwater conger (anago) Bay bolete Beetroot Black Krim tomato Black trumpet

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